Thursday 6 June 2013

Not a holdiday but a journey

Jane: First an update.  My theory is that Charlotte could not wait to kiss the holy soil of Santiago de Compostella, or may be she just wanted to get some practice in -- anyway, I´m walking along and behind me Charlotte is lieing flat on her face on the path!  She said she was just admiring some fox gloves !?!  The result of this "little slip" is one sprained left wrist which is now splinted with one of our sporks and the crepe bandage Henry insisted Jane pack.  Charlotte is fine to finish, but Jane has to do up her buttons!

There have been a few comments from our nearest and dearest about holiday snaps (and how you cannot wait to see the full set).  We need to point out that this six week period has not been a holiday (we´ll have one of those when we return), but it has been a journey.

It has been a journey through four distinct provinces in Spain with varied scenery, weather, wines, wild flowers, farming to name but a few of the differences.  It has also been a journey of discovery for us: learning about Spain, about ourselves, about coping in adversity, about friendships.

There have been many occasions when we have not taken pictures so we cannot share all our experiences with you.  Sometimes it was simply too wet to get the camera out, too muddy to risk any unnecessary movement,  too steep to risk taking our hands off our poles, or too fleeting for us to capture that moment.  However, here are a few of the contrasting experiences our journey has exposed us to.

We started off on the little mountain train in France to St Jean Pied de Port and from the window we could see this amazing green river. These deeply green rivers continued to accompany us for much of our time in the early stages of The Way -- it felt more appropriate to a jungle than the Pyrenean hills.


This an example of some of the strange places we have had to lay our heads -- but at least we could sit up here!

Weather!!!!!!
But also an example of the fleeting frienships we have made.


Another deeply green river and a rather lovely bridge.

Communal meals with other pilgrims - always lovely experiences.

This is an example of the strange pilgrim practice of putting crosses on wire fences, particularly next to main roads -- always looked very macabre.

Some pilgrims clearly have too much energy.  All along The Way there are little art constructions -- usually small towers of round stones, or way markers decorated with stones and flowers, or large arrows made from pine cones, orange peel, or whatever comes to hand.  This was a rather more aesthetically pleasing example.  Charlotte and I were always too kn.....d to do much more than take a photo.


Many people do the Camino Way on bikes. A few will ring their bell or bellow "Beun Camino"as they fly past.  We are amazed that there appear to be no collisions between walkers and riders.  Cyclists are catered for as you can see from this bridge with its very useful bike ramp.


We have largely eaten "the pilgrim meal" each day. A three course set menu at a modest price.  We did, however, push the boat out in Burgos where Charlotte ordered the roast lamb.  As you can see, not a scrap of mint sauce, nor a vegatable in sight -- just a leg of lamb and a little lamb´s tail.

A view of the Meseta as we moved from the rolling hills of Rioja down to the flatter plains of this high plateau.

I know we have shown you storks before -- but we love them.

We loved the beautiful, gentle cows in the Pyrenees.  After that we barely saw any livestock anywhere.  We did pass many huge smelly hangers which we guess animals were being kept in.  It was a joy to move into Galicia where we have seen so many fat, well-cared for cattle including these ones with the most amazing horns. There was one mother with her hour-old wobbly-kneed babe and many others clearly carrying.  The Daddy was busy eating trees.


We have had to over-come some adversity on this journey.  One of our solutions was to get Charlotte´s pack carried from albergue to albergue.  You might now be able to work out why Charlotte got shin splints in the first place!! (her pack is on the left.)

Galicia is famous for its pulpo.  Here Charlotte honours her pledge that she would eat pulpo in Sarria.  We were ages waiting while the chef prepared the dish as it took hours to cook as it kept turning the gas off (boom, boom)!

Ever mindful of the needs of weary pilgrims who had walked 14 miles, the good people of Portomarin make you climb these!

So we have shown you many hills and mountains.  Here are some flats - equally beautiful in their own way.

More weather!  Perhaps we should explain the expression.  However exhausted we felt, we always said when taking photos, "don´t look so tired!"


One of the few dry days after a period of continuous rain.  The view also shows you the lovely variety of the meseta.

Very recently here in Galicia we have been walking on the original and very ancient Camino Way.  Often we are walking along hollow ways worn down by the feet of countless pilgrims over the centuries.  Sometimes the original walls are way above one´s head.  They are cool and atmospheric.

Jane arriving at Portomarin today and barly remembering the rule about not looking tired!

That´s all folks! Lots of love.  J & C.

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