Wednesday, 29 May 2013

Howdee Gaudi

Jane: well, sorry to be teaching grandmother to suck eggs as obviously you all know that Antoni Gaudi from Catalan was the father of Catalan modernism and responsible for many architectural masterpieces in Spain, promoting artisanal crafts and skills including ceramics, carpentary, stonemasonary and ironwork to produce his unique style of architecture.  Here´s a bit of it.
 This was Gaudi´s Casa de Botines in Leon.

 This is Gaudi´s bishops´palace in Astorga.  You can see he liked a turret. In fact you could be forgiven for thinking we had leaped to Disney Land, Paris. It was fascinating inside, however.



These were the amazing vaults inside.  Every tile on the edges was hand crafted.


This is St James (who we are trailing to Santiago to see) in his "Moor-slayer" persona.


I don´t know about you and flying ducks across your living room wall, but clearly in 13th centuary the penchant was for flying bishops.


This is a 13th centuary figure of St James in a more benign mode (and as fresh as if this had been crafted yesterday).


There were an amazing number of very ancient, but very exquisite figures of the Virgin Mary.  She was often missing her crown and the fruit (??) she was holding in her right hand.  She would always be dressed in the rich raimant of the period and decorated in gold leaf.  The figure below is a particularly nice example from the medieval period.


We also visited the cathedral and its museum and we were amazed at the work that went into embroidering the church vestments -- gold and metallic threads cannot have been easy to manipulate and the curly fleeces on the Lamb of God must have taken weeks to complete and nobody would have seen this detail.

Below is me hanging onto a pilgrim´s staff to avoid being blown into the Leon Hills (which we have to face tomorrow).

Astorga is both a popular pilgrim town, with many pilgrims passing through all day, but also other tourists are here - we guess they are visiting the chocolate museum and purchasing bars of chocolate the size of gold ingots on display in the numerous sweet shops on every street.

Charlotte. This is me at the entrance to a very peaceful park that has wonderful views of the mountains in the distance, we head off tomorrow towards them. I am very hopeful my leg will be OK, we have rested, I am taking massive anti-inflamatory tablets, icing my shin, rubbing in embrocation and strapping it. ( we watched very helpful you tube films to instruct on appropriate strapping) We have also been walking around Astorga and going up and down many steps. My leg is sore but 90% better so as long as we rest frequently and take each day as it comes we will get to Santiago in about 12 days!!!!


We are getting my backpack portered to each albergue for the next few days, so we have had to buy a larger pack for Jane to carry as I need a small pharmacy to see to my needs!!!

Wish us luck, hasta luega. Love to all of you from C & J.

10 comments:

  1. Dear Jane and Charlotte
    Nice stuff about religious art, Mary etc, but the phrase that fairly leapt off the blog-page was “Astorga (and) … the numerous sweet shops on every street”. Now, I am guessing, but I expect they’ll be serving lashings of almond-based marzipan type sweetmeats. Sounds like my kind of town. And you don’t even need to be a pilgrim to visit!
    Liz and I spent a lovely long-weekend in Barcelona, and a day at Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia cathedral. It’s been being built for over 130 years. I rather liked its incompleteness, and the extent of his architectural ambition. Although he did small too.
    And thinking of size, I think Jane’s new backpack is a little on the big side. I look forward to photos of her in the high hills, doing mountain goat impressions!
    Marion and I are going to the British Museum tomorrow to see, “Ice Age Art: the arrival of the modern mind”. The exhibition ends at the weekend, and friends who’ve been rave about it. Some of the art comes from stone-age caves in northern Spain. No doubt the figures had special meaning and purpose, and local & distant stone-agers would have made special trips on special occasions to see/worship them. Makes more sense to me than monotheism, and all the command-and-control priesthoods that follow from that. I suspect pilgrimages, for many reasons, are very, very old.
    Charlotte: good luck with your leg. With the strapping up, and the analgesics, and the taking it really easy (fingers crossed) you’ll be fine.
    Continue to enjoy your ‘pilgrimage’, and thank you for your lovely blogs. We’re really enjoying them. You are funny.
    All my love XXXX Mark

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  2. Dearest Jane and Charlotte,

    The great thing about this blogsaga (21 posts and way over a hundred pics) is that I feel as though I'm doing the walk with you - but without the effort you two are putting into it. And you are conveying such a range of 'stuff' - its a religious, temporal, mystical, physical, artistic, aesthetic, pastoral, simple, penitent, salad and chips journey interspersed with treats and luxuries, and all covered with lots of weather. Quite something........ which possibly accounts for all those comments... 56 in total, about 2.5 comments per post on average ( but ranging from 0 to 11 - yes it was the wine fountain that really got the comments flowing) ...Mark way in the lead with 17 (commenting twice on 3 posts!) , then Henry with 9 then the rest of the family with 24 between them (average of 3 each) and some friends sending 1 or 2.

    Good luck with the ' up, up, and over' next bit of the walk. Look forward to reading and looking at your next set of experiences.

    All my love Henry xxxx

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  3. Gladto hear your leg is getting better mum ,and thanks for the cat postcards they are getting a bit crumpled though because Arlen is taking them to bed with him!
    keep on trekkin! ton of love xx

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  4. Dear Jane and Charlotte,

    today you start your fifth week of walking with 11 days to go. Strength and fortitude and all those other qualities that pilgrims acquire as they add to their grace count the nearer they get to their destination. Like all good endings there's some exciting bits to complete before the Prosecco ( Cava ?) gets opened. The exciting bits are quite big and high in your case - good luck tomorrow with the bit of whole the walk nearest heaven...Very good luck and Buen Camino. Love Henry xxxxx

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  5. Hope the next stage goes well and those legs hold up, Charlotte! I love reading about your travels and the photos are great - loving the huge backpack, but is it for medication or for Charlotte to get into?! I hope Jane is up to the task of carrying it! Sorry for the lack of comments - the last few mysteriously 'disappeared' when I tried to publish them...I'm hoping this one gets through from my work pc. Best of luck for the next phase and well done - I'm well impressed you're over half way (so is my sister, who visited last weekend - I showed her your blog - having done the camino, she knows what it's like!). Feliz caminar! Sinead xx

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  6. Dear Jane and Charlotte,

    I know this is my third comment on the same post, but I know you have had problems finding a computer the last few days and tomorrow you tick off another 'Camino Record', which I thought worth recording. Although you've been higher you've never stayed overnight at 4,300 ft, which you do on Monday evening ( almost Ben Nevis height) . You have been 'blessed' with the weather since your 5 day rest ( I think its the result of all those Cathedrals you visited ) and the next couple of days will be warm and sunny, which is just as well at that height ! Enjoy the next two days walking 'with the Gods' share their sunshine and views, then come down to earth for some more worldly experiences (ie rain and your Ryanair flight home !! )

    All my love, Henry xxxx

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  7. Dear Jane and Charlotte
    Have not written for a bit but have been thinking of you both and hoping that Charlotte's shin splints are improving. I remember Guy suffering during marathon training many years ago - painful!
    Had a superb day in London with Mark - full of culture but perhaps not as varied as you have been experiencing!Hope the next section goes smoothly. Only 12 days I can't believe it!! Hope you can bring some good weather back with you.

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  8. I hope you have good luck for the next weak . Love Lea xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

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  9. Dear Jane and Charlotte
    A short message to say that I hope all’s gone well during your high, mountainous walking. I picture you two tramping through high pastures of Spring/Summer flowers, slapping on the sun-tan cream, and wearing your cool Way sunglasses. Looking every inch the professional pilgrims.
    In practice I accept that things may have been a little different!
    Anyway I am sure that your photos will tell the story of your last few days, and I look forward to seeing them, once you reach IT ‘civilisation’.
    Still amazed that you’re doing what you’re doing.
    All my love XXXX Mark

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  10. Hi Mum and Charlotte

    Amazing progress and fab photos-looks really stunning. You have done amazing with shin splints to continue! Now less than one week to go. You must be really fit! I'm still very jealous and figure I only have to wait another 15-16 years before I can go too! We're really looking forward to seeing you both again and celebrating in style! How is the food? What is the weirdest thing you have seen to eat?! Lea told her teacher yesterday that her Daddy ate frogs legs on holiday! (True!!)

    Our thoughts and love are always with you and we send Massive hugs.

    All our love, Katherine, Chris, Lea and Emma x x x x

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